Hiking Cactus to Clouds
A NOTE TO FELLOW HAM RADIO OPERATORS: QSO was made with on this hike using the Wilderness Protocol on National Calling Frequencies 146.52 and 446 MHz. A very special thanks to AC7CP for posting my broadcasts as comments below!
We have not even to risk the adventure alone for the heroes of all time have gone before us. The labyrinth is thoroughly known … we have only to follow the thread of the hero path. And where we had thought to find an abomination we shall find a God. And where we had thought to slay another we shall slay ourselves. Where we had thought to travel outwards we shall come to the center of our own existence. And where we had thought to be alone we shall be with all the world.
Joseph Campbell
One of this first things you learn about wilderness travel is never go alone. However, when the hike has significant risk and requires extreme physical and psychological endurance, sometimes the only option is to do it alone. In fact, it can be downright irresponsible to bring someone along who has not had the proper mental and physical training, putting both them and you at significant risk. That’s exactly what happened to Robert Liebler and Veit Elser in 2009 when they attempted the treacherous Cactus to Clouds hike. Liebler ended up succumbing to heat exhaustion and perished. He was one of two bodies recovered during that deadly weekend in the shadow of Mount San Jacinto.
But sometimes when you set off on a journey alone, fate intervenes to bring unlikely travelers together. Just after setting off at 3:30am, I encountered fellow hikers Alex, Pemma, and Joyce, and teamed up with them. We ended up summiting San Jacinto and completing the hike together. Indeed, they made the experience so much more enjoyable, and gave me additional strength and motivation to complete the hike. In addition, radio contact with Martin Hall (AC7CP) was a great experience, especially for a new ham radio operator.
The Hiker
The question I get the most often about this hike, is “why?” It’s easy to think of hiking Cactus to Clouds as act of insanity, but the simple answer is that I find outdoor adventure brings me closer to God, and in a very intimate and profound way. It is an immensely humbling act to take a human being out of their comfort zone, force them rely upon their instincts, and have them trust in the goodwill of the universe for safe return. On my journey I participated in a important ritual, bringing symbolic indigenous objects to the mountain, used to implore the grace of the universe. Lastly, it is a way for me to meditate on my oneness with all hearts upon the Earth.
So now that you know all that, let’s get on with the hike!
The Hike
Trail Stats
Distance: 19.8 miles
Total Elevation Gain: 10,865 feet (!!!)
Total Elevation Loss: 2,844 feet
There are two main sections of this hike, the first 9 miles of the hike are done along the Skyline Trail, which begins at the Palm Springs Art Museum at 480 feet above sea level, and follows the east face of Jacinto toward the Tram Station, located at 8,526 feet above sea level. This is the hardest part of the hike because of the extreme elevation gain and since parts of the trail are steep and treacherous.
The second part of the hike begins in front of the tram station and climbs an additional 2,378 feet over 4.4 miles to the summit of San Jacinto at 10,755 feet. Including descent to the tram station, the hike takes you 17.98 miles with 10,865 feet of elevation gain.
If you’d like to check out the hike in more detail, you can view the hike on caltopo.com. If you want to visualize the hike in 3D using Google Earth you can download the KML file of the hike.
Training
For this hike, physical training weeks and months prior is essential. First, a person has to be used to long, strenuous activity at elevations above 7,000 feet to identify altitude issues, which can come hard and fast. It also allows the body to work its magic, automatically adjusting the cardio-pulmonary system to cope with the thinner air.
Perhaps equally as important is to have attempted a long (>13mi.) hike with at least a 5,000 elevation gain prior to attempting Cactus to Clouds. These types of preparatory hikes are more than just conditioning – they allow you to identify any areas of discomfort so that they can be handled prior to a longer hike. Examples include hot spots on the feet, pack comfort, joint pains, clothing, and gear issues.
Gear
Aside from training, proper gear planning is essential due to the length of the hike and the extreme conditions one might face. Some gear essentials include:
- 6 liters of water + water filtration for the water at the ranger station.
- Survival gear, including first aid, emergency blanket, emergency tarp, rope, and gloves.
- Illumination (headlamp) and backup illumination
- GPS with backup batteries
- Clothing suited for both the desert and mountain climates.
During this hike I carried a ham radio, which requires an FCC license to operate. I regard this as an essential piece of gear on this hike, especially if you’re doing it solo.
Communications
Cell phone service is shoddy at best on the way up the mountain and should not be relied on. Radio communications should be maintained during the hike. For this hike I used the Wilderness Protocol, broadcasting my condition and position on the mountain. This allowed me to maintain contact with other ham operators to mitigate the risk of being in an extremely remote area.